How Do You Like Our New Look?

We've got a whole new look here at Heavenly Pets. The website has been converted into a blog format, and we're hoping you will enjoy your visit here even more than before. Feel free to leave comments, explore the various links, and don't forget to visit our photo gallery. If you'd like to have your dog groomed, please give us a call at 816-358-7387.

What are anal glands?

Anal glands (also called "anal sacs") are two small glands just inside your pet's anus. The material secreted into these glands is thick and foul-smelling. Most animals can empty these glands voluntarily for scent marking or in self-defense (like a skunk might do).

Domestic animals have largely lost their ability to empty these sacs voluntarily. Walking around and normal defecation serves to empty the glands but some animals become unable to empty their glands on their own at all. The sacs become impacted and uncomfortable. Dogs with impacted anal sacs usually scoot their rear on the ground in an attempt to empty the glands. Some dogs will lick their anal area and other dogs will chase their tails. Cats often lick the fur off just under their tails.

Here at Heavenly Pets, the anal glands are emptied as part of the grooming process. If your dog gets a bath, we will check the anal glands and empty them at no additional charge. We do not do anal glands on cats.

Heavenly Pets Receives 2009 Kansas City Award

WASHINGTON D.C., June 8, 2009 -- Heavenly Pets has been selected for the 2009 Kansas City Award in the Pet Grooming category by the U.S. Commerce Association (USCA).

The USCA "Best of Local Business" Award Program recognizes outstanding local businesses throughout the country. Each year, the USCA identifies companies that they believe have achieved exceptional marketing success in their local community and business category. These are local companies that enhance the positive image of small business through service to their customers and community.

Various sources of information were gathered and analyzed to choose the winners in each category. The 2009 USCA Award Program focused on quality, not quantity. Winners are determined based on the information gathered both internally by the USCA and data provided by third parties.

About U.S. Commerce Association (USCA)

U.S. Commerce Association (USCA) is a Washington D.C. based organization funded by local businesses operating in towns, large and small, across America. The purpose of USCA is to promote local business through public relations, marketing and advertising.

The USCA was established to recognize the best of local businesses in their community. Our organization works exclusively with local business owners, trade groups, professional associations, chambers of commerce and other business advertising and marketing groups. Our mission is to be an advocate for small and medium size businesses and business entrepreneurs across America.

SOURCE: U.S. Commerce Association

Creative Grooming Awards

Pictured here is a standard poodle named Cindy, winner of the Creative Grooming awards along with her owner and groomer Sandra Hartness.

The two of them are regulars on the competitive grooming circuit in the U.S.
Using harmless food dyes, chalks, along with glitter, feathers, pompoms, pipe cleaners, plastic flowers, felt, hair gel, glitter glue and some strategic clipping, she has changed her part-time poodle into a dragon, a chicken and even a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle.

Moving In With Fleas

Q: I just moved into a new apartment. It is infested with fleas. Where did they come from and what can I do?

A: The people living there before you probably had a pet. Even if the apartment was treated with insecticides before you moved in, the treatment may not have penetrated the carpet to kill developing fleas.

For more information you can read the following posts on fleas:

• The Life Cycle Of A Flea
• Flea Control Is A Three Part Process
• How to Treat Your Pet For Fleas
• How To Treat Your Home For Fleas
• How To Treat Your Yard For Fleas
  

Why Do I Still Have Fleas?

Q: I have bombed my house for fleas three times this month and still have them. Why?

A: It is likely that you are seeing adults emerge from cocoons that were produced before you bombed. The cocoons are deep within the carpet and treatment may not have reached them. If you did not treat your yard new fleas may be coming indoors on you or your pets. If the foggers you used contained pyrethrins or pyrethroids, you probably only killed larvae and adults. Insect growth regulators are available in foggers and will prevent development of immature fleas.

For more information you can read the following posts:

• The Life Cycle Of A Flea
• Flea Control Is A Three Part Process
• How to Treat Your Pet For Fleas
• How To Treat Your Home For Fleas
• How To Treat Your Yard For Fleas
  

Treating Your Yard For Fleas

Flea larvae develop in shaded, humid areas, but will drown in a flooded environment. Rainfall is often enough to curb larval development outdoors. In addition to drowning, the fecal dried blood meal provided by adult fleas is no longer available if the lawn is wet. Loose debris and weeds should be removed and the lawn mowed to expose their environment.

Sprays containing insecticides registered for outdoor use, such as pyrethroids, may be applied during dry seasons every 2-3 weeks to shaded areas where pets frequent. Insect growth regulators are also available for outdoor use. Pyriproxyfen (Archer, Nylar) is the most effective outdoor treatment; it is very stable and provides protection against developing fleas for approximately 7 months.

Methoprene (Siphotrol, Precor) is also commonly used outdoors, but is not stable in sunlight. Larvae prefer shaded dry areas, so spraying the entire yard is wasteful and irresponsible.

If possible, control access of feral animals (opossums, skunks, etc.) to your yard as they bring new fleas with them. Sheds and dog houses should be treated the same as the house.

Biological control using the beneficial nematode Steinernema carpocapsae has been investigated in several areas around the United States. These nematodes are applied to the lawn as a spray and destroy the flea larvae (and other insects) by parasitizing them. They do not attack people, pets, or plants. This treatment should reduce flea populations if label directions are carefully followed.

In fact, just spraying the yard with water is enough to reduce flea populations! The nematode treatment is probably not needed.

Restricting pet access from areas that are difficult to treat (e.g., beneath porches, inside crowded sheds) may also help flea control.

Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture

Treating Your Home For Fleas

Indoor treatment should be concentrated on areas frequented by your pets; this is where most of the eggs and larvae will be located. Vacuum the entire house and dispose of the vacuum bag immediately there will be developing fleas inside!

Vacuuming will remove flea eggs and stimulate new adults to emerge from their cocoons, exposing them to any insecticide residue on the floor. Also, vacuuming may not pick up any larvae due to their ability to wrap around and hold on to carpet fibers.

Steam cleaning carpets is even more effective than normal vacuuming and should be considered if infestation is severe. Wash pet's bedding and throw rugs. Sprays or foggers containing an insecticide and insect growth regulator should be applied according to label directions after vacuuming.

Borate carpet treatment, applied either by the homeowner or a professional exterminator, works as intestinal poison upon ingestion by flea larvae. The powder is sprinkled and worked into the carpet. Overall risk of danger to pets and humans is unknown, but appears to be low. This treatment, however, is not recommended for homes with infants.

Diatomaceous earth has also been used as a chafing agent to control larvae in carpets, but it contains silica which is known to cause lung disease in humans if inhaled in excessive quantity.

Light traps placed around the home, especially where the pet frequents, may collect fleas upon emergence from their cocoons. Adult fleas have been noted to orient themselves toward light and jump when light is interrupted, as though the shadow signals passing of an unsuspecting host. Tests indicate they prefer yellow-green light (525nm) that remains on for 10 minutes and flashes off for 5 seconds. However, it is doubtful that this trap will attract fleas off your pet.

Cedar chips and leaves from wax myrtles may have some repellent properties (some people swear by them!), but have not been scientifically proven.

Restrict pet access from areas that are hard to treat, such as children's playrooms, crowded garages or work areas.

Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture

Treating Your Pet For Fleas

Here is a list of the various methods that can be used to treat your pet for fleas:

• A flea comb may be used, but is not very effective for removing fleas; only 10-60% will be collected. Fleas should be dropped in soapy water and then discarded. This method is very time consuming.



• Shampooing your pet removes the dried blood and skin flakes that fall to the ground and serve as food for flea larvae. The animal's body must be thoroughly lathered, and it is recommended that the lather remain for up to 15 minutes before the pet is rinsed.



• Flea shampoos contain various insecticides: Pyrethrins are derived from the chrysanthemum plant and kill fleas on the animal quickly. Pyrethroids are synthetically derived from pyrethrins and have better residual action. Both of these are usually enhanced with piperonyl butoxide, a compound which will inhibit the fleas from metabolically changing the insecticide into nontoxic, excretable compounds. Carbamate insecticides are also available for use in shampoos.



• Citrus peel derivatives, such as D-limonene, are also added to shampoos and are fairly mild, making them excellent for use on puppies and kittens, as well as in households with infants. Some pets however, especially cats, may exhibit allergic reactions to this type of product.



• DO NOT USE Pennyroyal oil. Pulegone, the active ingredient in this oil, has dose related toxicity to mammals and may induce lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea, nose bleeds, seizures, and, possibly, death due to liver failure. There is no antidote to pulegone poisoning.



• The newest advances in topical flea control applications are imidacloprid (Advantage) or fipronil (Frontline). Both are available as spot-on oils which are applied to the shoulder area of the pet and distribute over the body within a few hours. They are non-toxic to mammals and kill almost all fleas on the pet within 24 hours of treatment. Dogs and cats treated with imidacloprid have approximately 95% control for 3 weeks and then 80% control the fourth week. Fipronil kills 98% of the fleas on dogs and cats for 4 weeks, and efficacy continues for up to 8 weeks on dogs, but drops down to 80% protection on cats by sixth week. Fipronil also kills ticks on the animal for up to one month.



• If your pet displays flea allergy dermatitis take note: approximately 90% of the fleas on pets treated with either product fed (bit the pet) before their death. These fleas were also able to produce viable eggs. This means that while these products help reduce the symptoms of flea allergy dermatitis by killing fleas and reducing the number of flea bites on the animal, there may still be some allergic reaction because fleas are able to bite before dying. This blood meal will also enable them to reproduce.



• Insect growth regulators (IGRs) and insect development inhibitors (IDIs) work by interfering with egg development and molting of adolescent fleas. They control the flea life cycle but do not kill adult fleas. Methoprene (Precor) and pyriproxyfen (Nylar, Archer) are IGRs available for pet treatment in sprays and flea collars. Lufenuron (Program), an IDI, is orally administered to the pet. These products do not take immediate effect because they target flea eggs and larvae. Use of one of these products along with use of Advantage or Frontline will kill adults and prevent development of immature fleas.



• Scientific evidence regarding dietary supplementation with vitamin B, Brewer's yeast, or garlic suggest these methods are of little value.



• Ultrasonic flea collars have also been proposed for use to keep fleas off pets, but are completely ineffective. Insecticidal flea collars also are not very effective.

Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture

Flea control is a three part process:

1. Treat the Pet:
Removing fleas from pets may be done by a veterinarian, grooming salon, or by the pet owner on the day of treatment, either before or while the premises are being treated. (read more...)

2. Treat the Home:
Indoor treatment should be concentrated on areas frequented by your pets; this is where most of the eggs and larvae will be located. Wash pet's bedding and throw rugs. Sprays or foggers containing an insecticide and insect growth regulator should be applied according to label directions after vacuuming. Restrict pet access from areas that are hard to treat, such as children's playrooms, crowded garages or work areas. (read more...)

3. Treat the Yard:
Flea larvae develop in shaded, humid areas, but will drown in a flooded environment. Rainfall is often enough to curb larval development outdoors. In addition to drowning, the fecal dried blood meal provided by adult fleas is no longer available if the lawn is wet. Loose debris and weeds should be removed and the lawn mowed to expose their environment. Sprays containing insecticides registered for outdoor use, such as pyrethroids, may be applied during dry seasons every 2-3 weeks to shaded areas where pets frequent. Restricting pet access from areas that are difficult to treat (e.g., beneath porches, inside crowded sheds) may also help flea control. (read more...)

Fleas Like Her

Q: My daughter gets bitten by fleas while I am never bothered. Why is this?

A: Blood feeding insects are attracted to chemicals emitted from the body (sweat, exhalation, etc.). Some people just smell more attractive than others to certain insects. Individual sensitivity to the bite is another reason. To some, flea bites are extremely irritating while other people hardly notice them. This is caused by an allergic response to the flea saliva and occurs in varying degrees among people.

Fleas And Vacations

Q: When we go on vacation, we board our dogs at the kennel and leave the house closed up for three weeks. As soon as we get home we are attacked by fleas. The dogs have been away. What is going on?

A: The fleas that were in the egg and larval stage have pupated and matured and were waiting in their cocoons for the proper stimulation to emerge (vibration, carbon dioxide). In order to keep this from happening, next time treat your home with an insecticide that kills adult fleas and an insect growth regulator to prevent immature fleas from developing.

Sand fleas

Q: What are sand fleas?

A: "Sand fleas" or "beach fleas" are common names for small orange amphipods found along the beach. They are distant relatives of true fleas, and are not even insects (they have more than six legs). Also, some people may refer to fleas that just happen to be developing in sandy areas as "sand fleas".

Dog Fleas vs Cat Fleas

Q: What is the difference between dog fleas and cat fleas?

A: Cat fleas are the main flea on both cats and dogs in North America. Dog fleas are found in Europe. They are distinguished by a slight morphological difference which is only detectable under high magnification.

Fun Flea Facts

Everyone knows fleas aren´t fun.
However, here are some flea facts that will amaze you!

• Flea fossils date back to the Lower Cretaceous period, meaning fleas have been around for about 100 million years. At that time, fleas may have infested a Tyrannosaurus Rex or Triceratops!



• Fleas can jump up to 150 times their own length. To put that into perspective, if a human competed in the Olympic long jump with that ability, that athlete would certainly win the gold medal with a gravity-defying 1,000 foot long jump.



• On average, a flea´s lifespan is two to three months. However, pre-emerged fleas (not living on a pet) can survive undisturbed and without a blood meal for more than 100 days.



• The female flea can lay 2,000 eggs in her lifetime.



• The female flea consumes 15 times her own body weight in blood daily.



• The largest recorded flea is the North American Hystrichopsylla schefferi. Found in beavers, it can measure 12mm in length - almost 1/2-inch!



• A flea can bite 400 times a day!. That´s a rate of 4,000 bites a day if your pet has just 10 fleas.

Problems Associated With Fleas

Fleas are capable of transmitting plague and murine typhus to humans, but it's pretty rare. For the most part fleas are more of a nuisance than anything else.

They are not picky about their meals; any warm-blooded animal will do. Bites usually cause minor itching, but may be more irritating to those with sensitive skin. Some people and pets suffer from flea allergy dermatitis, lasting up to 5 days and characterized by intense itching, reddening at the bite site, hair loss, and secondary infection.

Fleas also serve as intermediate hosts of the tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). This intestinal parasite is transmitted to the pet while grooming via ingestion of an adult flea carrying a tapeworm cyst. The flea is infected by ingestion of the cyst during its larval stage. The parasite segments resemble small pieces of rice and may be discovered around the anal region of your pet.

Source: University of Florida Extension Service

Life Cycle of a Flea

Female fleas lay eggs, usually on the host (your pet), however, the eggs are not attached to the hair and soon fall off and develop on the ground or in the pet's bed or resting place.

Flea eggs are oval, smooth, and white in color. Although they are tiny, they are visible to the naked eye if you know what to look for. They are soon lost in the surroundings. The eggs are laid by the adult flea, one egg at a time, while it is ´riding´ on your pet. Female fleas are very prolific and can lay up to 50 eggs a day.

The eggs hatch in 2 to 12 days under favorable conditions (65-80 degrees F, and at least 70% relative humidity). The flea grub or larva hatches by hacking a hole in the eggshell with a specially developed area of the mouth, usually refered to as a ´milk tooth´.

The young larvae are tiny, whitish, and legless, with bristly hairs. They are also visible to the naked eye. They are eyeless, legless and sparsely covered with hairs. Because the larva is sticky and covered in hairs, it quickly becomes coated in any form of dust or debris in its surroundings which camoflage it nicely.

Larvae tend to avoid light by burrowing down into carpeting, or hiding under pet bedding. It then feeds on food particles present in the dust and debris arround it.
Flea larvae feed on organic debris (hair, dander, and shed skin of the animal), their own cast skins, and on the feces of adult fleas. The larval stage may last from 4 to 24 days in the summertime, 21 to 200 days under less favorable conditions.

When fully grown, the larva spins a silken cocoon and enters the pupal or resting stage. Having covered itself in sticky silk it is again disguised by the dust and debris in its surroundings. Safely inside it will metamorphose into the adult flea.

Under optimal conditions, new adults are ready to emerge within 2 weeks. They develop faster at higher temperatures, but can remain in their cocoons and stay alive for up to 2 years before hatching.

The main trigger for adult fleas to emerge seems to be vibration. A room can be empty for several months, but walking across the floorboards can cause enough disturbance that a host of fleas will be rampant within minutes.

The adult cat and dog fleas emerge from the pupae, and often crawl up on blades of grass outdoors, or onto furniture, draperies or the like indoors, and wait for a host to pass. If anything in the vicinity is at the same temperature as blood, the fleas are rapidly attracted to it - you, the dog, the cat, or anything else which may be a source of food.

They jump quickly onto the new host and begin feeding. Adults of the cat flea and dog flea are long-lived; they may live for a year of more, with periodic feeding. It is only during the adult stage that the flea lives on your pet and feeds on fresh blood.

Having fed, they are then able to lay an egg. They can repeat this process up to once every half hour when at their peak, and can lay more than 300 eggs in a lifetime. These move into the surroundings and off we go again! The whole cycle in good Summer weather or efficient central heating can be comfortably less than four weeks.

Dispite popular belief, most fleas do not pass animal to animal, but stay with the host that they first attack. Most infections are picked up directly from the environment. Of course other infected animals will be contributing to the pool of new infestation by shedding eggs. Hence most animals in fact set up their own private supply of pet fleas.

Source: University of Florida Extension Service

How do I know if my pet has fleas?

A few relatively simple observations can help determine the extent of a flea problem. Keep an eye on your pet and watch for how much it scratches. Note if and when fleas attempt to bite people. Determine where fleas are active by walking through suspect areas wearing white socks (tuck in pant legs), which allows you to see the fleas as they try to bite.

Or, if you suspect fleas are present, place a shallow pan of water, containing a little dishwashing detergent or vegetable oil, on the floor, and place a gooseneck lamp with the light about 6 inches above the liquid surface. Adult fleas try to leap toward the light at night, and fall into the liquid and drown.

Use a flea comb to comb your pets regularly. The flea comb removes fleas from a pet, but doesn't kill them. Inspect the comb after each pass over the pet, and dip the comb into a bowl of warm soapy water (or a glass of water with a squirt of dish detergent), or pull captured fleas from the comb and drop them into the container of soapy water to drown them.

Remember, it just takes two fleas to create a huge flea problem, so if you see a flea, do something about it right away.

What is a flea?

Fleas are small insects, about ¼ inch in length, laterally flattened, and brown to black or gray in color. They are wingless, and have long hind legs for jumping. Fleas have sucking mouthparts, and as adults, feed on the blood of mammals or birds. Many species are very annoying because of their bites, and a few act as vectors for disease. Some people and pets are known to develop allergic reactions to flea bites.

Fleas become pests when they get into our houses. Fleas in houses are usually linked with a pet or a visiting cat or dog. Cat fleas (Ctenocephalides felis), and dog fleas (Ctenocephalides canis) are the species most often found in houses. Wild animals have fleas also, and if such animals are living in the homes, fleas may become a problem. Flea problems often occur when the host animal had been absent for a period of time, such as when the family goes on vacation, taking or boarding the pet. Fleas may also be driven into the house during prolonged periods of wet weather.

Each species of flea has one or two kinds of animals it prefers, although when hungry, it will attack a wide variety of warm-blooded animals, sometimes including humans. Adult fleas live on the blood of the animals, and must have a blood meal to reproduce.

Cat and dog fleas periodically jump on and off the host. When the host is removed for a period of time, they are left without food. Hungry adult fleas often attack on the first warm-blooded animal that comes in the door, often biting people around the ankles. In addition, vibrations are known to promote emergence of new adults from pupae; walking across the floor may trigger emergence.

Source: University of Florida Extension Service

It's A Flea Circus!

The Acme Miniature Circus is an authentic Victorian style flea circus.
ARTWORK CREDIT: JAIME MURPHY


Professor A.G. Gertsacov examines one of the stars of his Victorian style flea circus.
PHOTO CREDIT: DENNIS HLYNSKY


The Acme Miniature Circus features trained fleas as seen before (and on top of) The Crowned Heads of Europe.
PHOTO CREDIT: DENNIS HLYNSKY


Professor Gertsacov inspects his audience to see if they have fleas. Gertsacov guarantees that no one leaves his show with more fleas than they came in with.
PHOTO CREDIT: DONNA ATWOOD


Professor A.G. Gertsacov gives an illustrated history of the flea before the fleas perform their stunts.
PHOTO CREDIT: DONNA ATWOOD


Professor A.G. Gertsacov peers through the highpowered magnifying glass he uses to view his fleas.
PHOTO CREDIT: KRISTOF


Professor A.G. Gertsacov prepares the Flaming Hoop of Death.
PHOTO CREDIT: KRISTOF


The lavishly decorated miniature trailer that the stars of the Acme Miniature Circus call home.
PHOTO CREDIT: M.B.Gertz



Isn't this fun?
Oh, but wait!
There's more!
We even have a video!



Oh Hey!
And here's another one!

Flea Power??

Here's a picture of a flea pulling a cart, and no, it's not photoshopped. This is a real flea, hooked up to a tiny cart, balanced on someone's nose. It'd be a bad time to sneeze, wouldn't it?